The Oscar Win for ‘The Substance’

At the 2025 Academy Awards, The Substance, directed by Coralie Fargeat and featuring Demi Moore, received recognition for its excellence in cinematography, particularly in the realm of hair and makeup design. The film garnered an Oscar for Best Hair and Makeup Design, an outcome that many anticipated.

Nomination Limitations and Team Dynamics

While it might seem logical for an entire hair and makeup department to receive recognition, the Academy’s nomination system permits only three nominees per category. This limitation poses challenges, particularly in collaborative environments where multiple professionals contribute to the final product. For The Substance, the nominees included special makeup effects designer Pierre-Olivier Persin, key makeup artist Stéphanie Guillon, and key hair artist Marilyne Scarselli.

Controversy Surrounding the Nominations

The selection of nominees has sparked some discord, particularly regarding key hair artist Frédérique Arguello, who feels overlooked following the nomination of her assistant, Marilyne Scarselli. Arguello’s claims suggest that her significant contributions throughout the filming process were undervalued compared to Scarselli, who only transitioned to her role briefly at the end of the shoot.

Both artists had previously won acclaim at other award ceremonies, such as the BAFTAs and Critics’ Choice Awards, which adds complexity to the discourse surrounding their nominations.

Producer Nicolas Royer’s Statement

In light of the growing tension, producer Nicolas Royer addressed the issue in a letter to the Association of Production Managers. He clarified the roles of Arguello and Scarselli, asserting that both had significant responsibilities as head hairdressers. He noted, “Frédérique intervened more in preparation for the search for looks and during part of the shooting. Marilyne took care of the main actresses more, in conjunction with the Special Makeup Effects team.”

The Role of Special Makeup Effects

The special makeup effects serve as a core element of the film’s artistic vision, contributing to the narrative arc and character development. In an episode of the Filmmaker Toolkit podcast, Fargeat highlighted the challenges of applying intricate prosthetics, noting, “You can’t test it… It’s going to be on the day.” The rigors of designing and applying the makeup became central to the film’s storytelling, particularly during crucial character transformations.

Conclusion: A Cohesive Team in the Spotlight

The ongoing feud among team members underscores the need for the Academy to reconsider its nomination structure to better reflect the collaborative nature of film production. Splitting credit among contributing artists can lead to divisive sentiments, which detracts from the spirit of teamwork that is vital in the filmmaking process.